We asked a professional how to choose ski bindings and some of our favorite questions! Is lightness the key? What are misconceptions about vertical and horizontal springs?

Ski bindings are gear that secures the skis and boots together, but that's not all they do. They may seem like simple gear, but they're actually quite complex. Therefore, neglecting them can prevent you from performing at your best and lead to injury... Bindings play a very important role in skiing.
Here, Takumi Toyama, also known as "Kin-chan," who works as a coach both in Japan and overseas, explains their basic role and how to choose them, as well as various questions that are commonly asked on the street.
Let's solve all the worries you've been having.

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Reviewing the role of bindings

First of all, bindings are devices that secure the skis and boots together. And most importantly, they are equipped with a mechanism that "safely releases" in the event of a fall. Bindings are designed to release when a certain amount of force is applied in a certain direction. If they do not release, you could, for example, twist your ankle, or in the worst case, suffer serious injury. "Secures the skis and boots, but also releases safely." Bindings are equipped with a delicate mechanism that fulfills these two opposing roles

Toyama has been using MARKER bindings for a long time and has a deep understanding of bindings

So how do you actually choose?

First of all, I would like to clarify what kind of situations I will be skating in

"Are you going to climb a mountain and ski?" "Are you going to jump and do tricks in the park?" "Are you going to the slopes?"

Also, bindings need to be considered as a set with skis and boots. For example, heavy bindings on light skis and soft boots are not a good match, and you will not be able to make the most of each. When considering the combination of skis, boots and bindings, you should focus on where you will be skiing.

When skiing on a slope or in a park, the bindings you choose will depend on "what kind of slope you will be skiing on and at what speed" and "how many jumps you will be jumping over."
I use Marker bindings, so I will use Marker as an example.
For example, if you mainly ski freeriding in parks and on slopes,

●High-spec class "Jester"
●Middle class "Griffon"
●Entry class "Squire"

From the left: JESTER, GRIFFON, SQUIRE, all from MARKER's freeride lineup

These are the three options

Those who like to ski at high speeds on rough slopes should choose high-spec bindings. This is because the materials used in the bindings are different, which affects the rigidity of the bindings themselves, and therefore the way power is transmitted. For example, the Jester and Griffon look similar, but they are made of different materials. Where the Jester uses metal parts, the Griffon uses plastic parts, making it lighter.
The Jester is able to transmit power more effectively to the skis, and the weight of the binding itself allows for stable skiing even at high speeds. In fact, the Griffon is lighter, making it easier to handle even for those with less muscle mass. To give you an idea, there's a difference in stability between a luxury sedan and a minicar going 120 km/h. This may help explain the difference.

GRIFFON is in the foreground and JESTER is in the background. They have similar shapes, but the materials in the areas circled in red are different

Furthermore, bindings with high rigidity and high transmission of force also transfer force from the snow surface to your body more easily. This can lead to foot fatigue, especially when skiing on rough slopes.
In other words, high rigidity isn't necessarily the best option; you should determine the bindings that are right for you based on your skiing style, the slope, your speed range, and your muscle mass (weight). High-spec ski gear isn't necessarily better; each person has their own optimal solution tailored to their skiing style. There's no
set standard for determining which bindings are right for you based on your weight and speed, so we recommend visiting a ski shop and consulting with the staff. For those who only ski on piste runs or who want to go into the backcountry, bindings other than the three models mentioned above may be an option. It's a good idea to explain in detail the type of skiing you do.

Release value is the same for all manufacturers

I mentioned that stiffness differs depending on the material, but the release value is consistent across all manufacturers. For example, Marker bindings have a "release value of 9" and Salomon bindings have the same "release value of 9." This is standardized across all manufacturers through something called the DIN standard. A manufacturer's release value of 9 does not mean that its bindings are more likely to come off than other manufacturers' release values ​​of 9. This is true for all bindings, and only bindings that have passed testing to meet the DIN standard are currently on sale, so there are no exceptions

Vertical spring? Horizontal spring? The markers are used to place the center of gravity of the rotation at the feet..

You may not know this often, but bindings contain springs. The strength of the release value is adjusted by loosening or tightening the spring. Most Marker bindings have horizontal springs in the toe piece and vertical springs in the heel piece. Many manufacturers also use vertical springs in the toe piece. Marker uses horizontal springs in the toe piece to shift the center of gravity closer to the foot, reducing centrifugal force and "lightening the swing weight." Some manufacturers also have springs in the heel piece that are built into the base, but Marker's are built into the heel piece itself. This means that when you step on your boot and the binding rises, the center of gravity shifts to the center of the ski, lightening the swing weight

The spring in MAERKER's two-piece shoes is inserted sideways

This mechanism is designed to make freestyle spinning tricks even easier. It's easy to use in parks and jumps, but it also has the benefit of improving ski maneuverability and edge grip when skiing down the slopes. Also, since the spring in the heel piece is not in the base but in the heel piece itself, it exerts a stronger pressure from above, giving a better hold

The spring in the heel piece is easy to see. When you step on the boot, the spring rises and moves closer to the center of the ski, lightening the swing weight

There can be no misunderstanding

Sometimes, the bindings will come off by themselves without your intention, and some people call this a "mistake release." However, this is because a certain amount of force was applied in a certain direction at the time, causing the bindings to come off properly, and not because the gear mechanism malfunctioned. There is a clear reason for the release. For example, the boots and bindings may not be properly set up, or the toes or heels of the boots may be worn down, causing the boots and bindings to not fit together properly

So, if you find yourself thinking, "Huh? It suddenly came off," check your settings, the condition of your boots, and whether the bindings are suitable for your weight and style of skiing

Light is justice?

I think that lighter bindings are definitely better for beginners and novices. Marker's Squire is light and recommended. It's easy to carry and easy to turn. I also think that Squire is a good choice for people who want to do high-spin tricks with park equipment. If you're not going very fast, lighter bindings are fine

However, if you plan on skiing at high speeds, it is better to choose bindings made from heavy, rigid materials such as Griffon or Jester, so it is not necessarily the case that light bindings are better for everyone

How do you mount the bindings?

This is a difficult question that I get asked a lot (laughs). This
is just my personal guideline, but if you want to ski the park, I think about 3cm back from the middle of the actual length of the skis is good. This makes it easier to glide in switch and makes it more stable when turning.

For those who mainly ski in powder or on slopes, a 3-6cm back is recommended. After all, a shorter tail will give you better "release" when turning. Of course, each ski has a recommended binding position written on it. This is the manufacturer's recommendation after extensive testing, so I think there's no problem with just placing it there

However, if you still want to place the bindings in a position that suits you, I recommend that you try out ski test rides and have the bindings slightly moved to compare the way you ski, to find the position that suits you best

By the way, for the past few years, I have been setting all my park skis 1.5cm back from the center of the actual length. For powder skis, I set them 3cm back. Even though they are powder skis, I sometimes do tricks with them, so I settle on 3cm back so I don't drop them too far

The binding mounting position is a difficult one, as it depends on personal preference. It's a good idea to ask people with a similar skiing style to yours before deciding

Bindings don't get much of the spotlight, but they're an important piece of gear that directly affects your safety and skiing performance. Choose the right bindings for you to enjoy a comfortable skiing experience

PROFILE

Takumi Toyama
is affectionately known as "Kin-chan" after the period drama "Toyama no Kin-san." After a successful career as a freestyle ski slopestyle athlete, he has been teaching for many years both in Japan and overseas as a coach. He makes lessons fun by making people laugh with the humor he weaves in between his explanations of logical tricks. He runs the freeskiing lesson website "freeskiheadz.com" and also posts various information related to freeskiing on YouTube.
Sponsor/ @volkl_japan , @electric_japan , @bn3th_japan , @ebsmission , retailerpole
https://www.instagram.com/freeskiheadz.com_t_yama/

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