While the vast majority of skiers and snowboarders consider the season over once the May holidays are finished, Gassan Ski Resort in Yamagata Prefecture still boasts 370cm of snow in mid-May.
It's surprising that you can enjoy skiing and snowboarding there until summer. We asked a STEEP reader who thoroughly enjoyed the Gassan backcountry this spring to report on the allure of Gassan, where you can still ski and snowboard.
Mt. Gassan is packed with all the charms of spring skiing
When you think of spring in the world of snowy mountains, you think of Mt. Gassan. I'm sure there are many people who think, "Oh, spring has come!" when they hear that the Gassan Ski Resort is opening! I think the Gassan backcountry in spring is packed with all the charms of the spring season
Wouldn't you say that the appeal of spring backcountry skiing is something like this?
The first appeal is that you can enjoy leisurely mountain trips in relatively stable weather.
The second appeal is that you can ski on a variety of snow conditions that are different from those in the dead of winter.
The third appeal is that you have more time, so you can explore a wider range of areas.
Now that May is over, many people will have put away their snowboards for the season, but I hope to share the charm of the surprisingly long spring and summer season through a report on a backcountry tour of Mt. Gassan, the starting point of Guide KinTouN's annual "Spring Tohoku Snow Caravan."
Gassan Backcountry: A fun and otherworldly experience
Gassan Ski Resort is famous for being a ski resort that opens in April. Beyond the lifts is a vast backcountry area
If you look towards Mt. Gassan from Yamagata City at this time of year, you'll see that the large, flat mountain is the only thing covered in pure white snow. Looking at this, it's easy to understand why people in the past felt a mystical aura about these mountains and made them the object of mountain worship. There is a magnificent shrine on the summit, but at this time of year it is still buried under snow, and the gods don't usually come up until July 1st
Mt. Gassan is located about an hour and a half by car from Yamagata City. Due to heavy snowfall in winter, it is only possible to access Mt. Gassan by car as far as Shizu Onsen, just before the mountain, but once the snow is removed in time for the opening of the Gassan Ski Resort, you can finally access the ski resort at the foot of Mt. Gassan
The allure of skiing down Mount Gassan is undoubtedly the otherworldly landscape, surrounded by the ridgelines of Mount Gassan and Mount Ubagatake.
When you drop down from the ridgeline, the deep blue sky and the white ridgelines come into view. No matter how many times you stand there, you are overwhelmed by the unique, otherworldly atmosphere that unfolds in the silence. This year
's opening day was a weekday Friday, so there were few people, which made the otherworldly feeling even more enjoyable.
The first run of spring. Will the white slide? Or the brown?
Day 1, my first run of spring! It's been a while since my last backcountry run, so I'm a little nervous standing at the drop point on a steep, open run for the first time in a while. Unlike in the dead of winter, there's no powder to catch me off the steep slope I jumped into, which makes me a little uneasy (lol)
When you think of spring, the classic image is the white and brown spotted pattern on the slopes. A few days before we started our tour of Mt. Gassan, a fairly large amount of fresh snow fell, and since then it has been melting and freezing repeatedly. The areas that are not exposed to the sun are still pure white! The bottom is a jumble of white and brown. I wonder if the skis will slide on this?
Our guide, Minegishi, skied ahead and saw his skis sliding in the white areas! As we descended in altitude, the snow was a bit stop-snowy in the white areas, but overall it looked good!
The skiers ahead quickly became tiny specks in the distance. I think skiing down these large slopes is one of the charms of spring backcountry skiing.
And the question is, will the skis run on the mottled white and brown spring snow? On the first day, the answer was, "They ran on both!"
The east side of Mt. Gassan with its beautiful shiny film
Springtime backcountry skiing is characterized by extreme temperature fluctuations. While mornings are quite cold due to radiative cooling, the combination of sunlight from above and reflection from the snow during the tour makes it quite hot while you're active. It gets even more scorching hot if there's no wind! However, this heat isn't all bad.
When the snow moves from sunny to shady, or when a cool breeze starts to blow, a film of ice forms on the surface, and when the sun reflects off it, it's absolutely beautiful.
On this second day, the daytime was also scorching hot. What's more, when you're moving below the ridge of Mount Gassan, the wind is blocked by the ridge, so it's almost completely still. After one run down the slope, I continued hiking towards the summit, my energy drained by the heat.
Today was Saturday, so there were many hikers, and the route to the summit was bustling. Despite the heat, I was encouraged by the sight of other hikers, and finally reached the summit.
At the summit of Mt. Gassan, in summer, only the roof of the impressive shrine building peeks out from the snow. In the harsh winter, it would be completely buried. The fact that such a magnificent shrine building exists in such a difficult location shows how deeply worshipped the mountain was in this area
Now, we take a lunch break at the summit. We take our time, taking care of the blisters that have formed on our feet during the long journey, and eating the lunch box prepared by the inn. The lunch box, which is a little stronger in flavor for mountain climbing, seeps into our bodies. It's so delicious! Salt is important after sweating
The first run of the afternoon was the most memorable slope of the tour. The sun's rays from the morning had already faded, and perhaps because it was in a bit of shade, the surface of the slope was crisp, and when I dropped down, I felt an indescribable sensation through my skis and boots
The sound of the edges gripping the crisp surface is unique, the scenery in front of you is beautifully clear, and you can enjoy skiing with all your senses.
I truly feel that this feeling is something that can only be experienced in spring!
Enjoy the relaxed atmosphere unique to spring,and it's also a great time to try out new gear.
When talking about the benefits of backcountry skiing in the spring, it's essential to mention the laid-back atmosphere that only spring can offer. In the depths of winter, heavy snowfall and extremely low temperatures mean minimizing inactivity and planning your activities to avoid catching a cold. Quick changes between skiing and hiking are also required, so it's important to use familiar gear
In comparison, spring is a truly laid back experience! After skiing, you can relax in the warm sunshine and cool breeze, and have lively conversations with other tour participants. When you're with good friends, the conversation is lively and you'll be talking all the time except when it's unbearably hot (laughs)
There's one more thing I think is good about spring. That is, if you're going to break in new gear, especially bindings, spring is the best time.
Even if you have trouble getting used to operating bindings, in spring you'll have plenty of time to handle them with ease. If you get used to them in the spring, you'll be able to use them comfortably from the start of the next season, and you should be able to deal with any problems that arise without any difficulty. Plus, you'll have plenty of time to think about how to deal with any problems that might occur next season. For these reasons, I recommend trying out new gear in the spring.
Luggage issues and the relaxing Shizu Onsen
, that "going to Mount Gassan in spring means going to enjoy the flavors of spring"
(laughs). That's how standard practice is to stay at Shizu Onsen, located just before the Gassan ski resort, if you plan to ski there for several days. And spring in Shizu Onsen is wonderful, with an abundance of delicious wild mountain vegetables.
Sendaiya, where we stayed this time, is located right in the heart of Shizu Onsen. It's a convenient location for skiers who use public transportation. We sent all of our large luggage, such as our skis, via courier, so we only had one night's worth of luggage until we arrived at Shizu Onsen, making it super light! We were able to spend our time in Yamagata City light
One of the joys of a spring backcountry trip is, of course, the hot springs, but I think it's the spring delicacies that really stand out.
Shizu Onsen has many excellent inns, and every one of them offers meals where you can enjoy the seasonal flavors of spring. There is still plenty of snow above the Gassan ski resort, but spring is in full bloom down below. I think it is thanks to this large difference in elevation that you can enjoy plenty of wild vegetables for such a long time in spring on Mount Gassan.
KinTouN Spring Tohoku Snow Caravan
The "Spring Tohoku Snow Caravan" organized by backcountry guide KinTouN, which I participated in this time, has been a "spring tradition" for KinTouN for the past few years, starting around the time the Gassan Ski Resort opens. It's a
grand event where participants take a road trip for about 2-3 weeks from mid-April, searching for good slopes in the Tohoku backcountry, visiting places like Gassan, Hakkoda, Iwaki-san, Chokai-san, and Akita-Komagatake.
(Incidentally, this year it was held from April 22nd to May 6th, 2024.)
Participants travel through the mountains of Tohoku, staying overnight in their own cars or rental cars, and sometimes staying in hotels.
Surrounded by KinTouN guide Minegishi, they climb, ski, chat (and drink!), and enjoy a fun-filled journey. Participation in the caravan is flexible; you can join for multiple days or just one day, according to your own schedule. Even if you don't have a long vacation, you can work remotely from Yamagata City and join the caravan on a spot basis.
A romantic road trip through Tohoku, where you can admire the simple yet abundant nature of the region. If you're interested, check out KinTouN's officialInstagramor "Mineken's Radio Show: Living in Harmony with Nature." You can find information about the tour and upcoming tour dates. Why not take a look!
SPECIAL THANKS Guide: Kenichi Minegishi, Representative of KinTouN