Arc'teryx is launching "System 0," a new framework that aims to establish a circular business model by rethinking the entire cycle from product manufacturing and distribution to repair, collection, and recycling
To mark the start of an initiative aiming for a larger cycle that extends beyond the brand and the outdoor industry, a media event was held on August 28th at the Shinjuku brand store, under the theme "The Revolution is Circular."
The event included the unveiling of the project's first hard shell jacket, the "Sperro SV Jacket," as well as presentations on the brand's manufacturing process and System 0, and a demonstration of ReBIRD™. Here's a glimpse of what was presented
It all started with what was needed in the mountains
First, Country Director Ken Takagi explained the brand's journey since its founding and the core philosophy behind its product development
"Mountain transforms us"—Based on the belief that "mountains make us better," Arc'teryx started in 1989 as "Rock Solid," a manufacturer and retailer of climbing gear in British Columbia, western Canada, a region deeply rooted in outdoor culture
Field experiences are directly reflected in the design. It's as if, like the saying "necessity is the mother of invention," there's a history of technological innovation stemming from the necessities born in the mountains
In 1992, the brand gained recognition with the "Vapor" harness, which used lightweight thermoformed foam, and in 1994, the "Bora" backpack, which applied the same technology, was released. Furthermore, after joint development with the GORE-TEX brand, the brand began developing apparel in 1998, creating the "Alpha SV," a hard shell jacket that is representative of the brand
In recent years, efforts have also been made to reduce environmental impact. By the 25-26 season, the DWR (durable water repellent) finish on GORE-TEX products was changed to PFAS-free. By using ePE membrane (stretched polyethylene), the flexibility of the fabric has been improved. Furthermore, by reviewing the fabric pattern, a reduction in fabric waste equivalent to approximately 400 jackets has been achieved
"Is it really necessary?" Four criteria to support product development
Arc'teryx's product development, which stems from the strong will of action-oriented designers and is based on the motto "Evolution in action," is guided by four criteria
Authentic: Does it have a necessity rooted in the mountains?
Functional: Does it solve on-site problems?
Beautiful: Does it possess beauty achieved by stripping away unnecessary elements?
Responsible: Does it take responsibility for longevity and repairability?
Based on these criteria, the brand pursues functionality that can withstand harsh mountain environments, a timeless and streamlined design, and comfortable wearability. Even for items that are, in a sense, niche and have few competing products, improvements have been continuously made thanks to the designer's hands-on approach and passion
At the heart of the brand's sustainable approach is the "Design to Last" philosophy. The aim is to create high-quality products that can be cherished and used for a long time, repaired as needed. This philosophy is also reflected in the newly announced System 0
Re-weaving the future from thread. What is System 0?
Next, Brand Manager Katsuhiro Hayashi took the stage and introduced "System 0," the main topic of the event
The right side of the circle shows the activities undertaken with users after the product reaches their hands, as well as the product's journey, and the goal is to completely connect this cycle through product regeneration.
System 0 is a new framework that aims to rethink the entire product lifecycle, from design, procurement, manufacturing, use, and repair to collection and recycling after the end of the product's lifespan, and to establish circularity as a viable business model
Regarding the difference between this and simple reuse and recycling, the designers in the country of origin describe it as "not just refreezing melted ice cream, but rather breaking it down to its raw materials and remaking it."
ReBIRD™ supports "long-term use"
The foundation for this is the existing "ReBIRD™" program. The brand has long provided after-sales service to help users extend the lifespan of their products, but with ReBIRD™, physical locations have been established, making the point of contact with users even closer.
To support a culture of nurturing products as "companions that accompany you for 10 or 20 years," we offer services that extend the lifespan of our products, including quick repairs to get them back into the field as soon as possible
At the event, a demonstration of quick repair for jackets that have tears or holes was held. The general process consists of three steps: cutting, heat pressing, and cooling. The temperature and time are controlled by machine, but the pressure, which varies depending on the fabric, is adjusted by hand by specialist staff, and the amount of force applied determines the final result
The Shinjuku brand store, which receives the most repair requests in Japan, receives about 250 inquiries per month. However, in Australia, where there is a high level of interest in the circular economy, they receive more than 100 inquiries per week, and in North America, the number reaches several thousand per year. Incidentally, the most common repair request is for broken zippers on backpacks
While they don't yet offer buyback and resale services in Japan, they already have a buyback service in North America. Regardless of how long the product has been used, customers receive a coupon equivalent to 30% of the purchase price
What's distinctive is that the goal isn't just repair. The ReBIRD™ team, which works closely with users, has accumulated insights such as "where things tend to break" and "how they are used," which are then fed back to the design team and used in the development of the next product. A cycle of "learning from where things break and making the next product stronger" has already been established within the brand
System 0 takes that cycle even further
Arc'teryx CEO Stuart Haselden describes this as a further step forward from their previous approach of creating "gear that can be repaired and used for a long time."
Even after a product has completed its initial lifecycle, it won't be discarded but will continue to have meaning. System 0's goal isn't just to create one environmentally friendly jacket. It's to transform the entire system of high-performance outdoor products, from their creation to their final stage of use, from a linear to a circular one
The first product to bear the name "Hope": the "Sperro SV Jacket"
The first product to be announced as symbolic of System 0 is the " Sperro SV Jacket," a next-generation, top-of-the-line hard shell jacket named after the Latin word "spero," meaning "to hope" or "to expect ."
Regarding the reason why hard shells, which have a particularly complex structure within the brand's lineup, were chosen first, Arc'teryx's Chief Creative Officer, Katie Becker, explained that the idea was that if they could solve the circularity challenges with hard shells, they could apply the insights gained there to the entire system
As the phrase "Designed to Persist" suggests, it is designed to be used for as long as possible. In addition to high durability and ease of repair, its greatest feature is that it can even be "disassembled" after the end of its product life, which has been a major challenge in realizing circular products until now
The material uses GORE-TEX PRO and an ePE membrane. The outer and inner fabrics use Aquafil's "ECONYL® recycled nylon yarn." Through chemical recycling, the GORE-TEX membrane and nylon material are separated, and the nylon is recycled back into ECONYL® yarn of the same quality as new
Furthermore, the Sperro SV is the first product to receive certification under the "TESTEX Circularity" circular product standard, jointly tested by Arc'teryx and TESTEX. Thorough testing was conducted with the cooperation of mountaineering professionals, including North Shore Rescue in Vancouver. Areas prone to failure have been reinforced, and for the first time in Arc'teryx history, the zippers, which have often failed, now feature easily replaceable zipper sliders
From Friday, September 4th, original stickers expressing the world of System 0 will be distributed in limited quantities to customers at brand stores nationwide. Furthermore, the Ikebukuro brand store will host special events for three days until Sunday, September 6th, including a gift of an original phone sling for those who purchase a hard shell, a repair and upcycling workshop, and a talk show exclusively for BIRD CLUB members
Those who continue to stand in the field talk about nature and tools
Towards the end of the event, a talk session was held featuring brand manager Mr. Hayashi and brand ambassador and photographer Mr. Gentaro Ishizuka
The film screened was a video from the "Glacier Diary" project, which tracks and documents the retreating coastal glaciers of Alaska using only human-powered sea kayaks and the ebb and flow of the tides. Hayashi describes Ishizuka, who continues to face nature alone on the frozen sea, as both a photographer and an "athlete." He began supporting the project because he wanted to convey and support the activities and stories behind the scenes that cannot be captured in photographs
For Ishizuka, photography differs from bodily expression like painting because the camera acts as an intermediary between the photographer and the subject, making the planning itself—"what to photograph, why, and how"—important
He uses a large-format film camera. In an environment where he is on a constantly rocking kayak with no resupply for 25 days, the simple structure that makes it easy to fix malfunctions himself is of great importance. He is also attracted to the fact that analog processes, including developing in a darkroom, remain
This philosophy is also reflected in the equipment he carries. He travels in a sea kayak that can carry up to 100 kg, making use of what is available in the area and updating his equipment accordingly. The driftwood tied to the deck serves as support sticks for his tarp. And he continues to use his "Alpha FL" climbing pack, which is so minimalist that he feels it "cannot be stripped of any more," as a deck pad, a use different from its original purpose
Regarding immersing oneself in nature, he contrasts it with "the city, where everything tends to be too much," saying that in nature, with limited information and food, unnecessary things are stripped away, things become simpler, and ideas naturally begin to flow
Finally, Mr. Ishizuka gave a message to the attendees, saying, "Don't be afraid of bears, go to the mountains." Mr. Hayashi revealed that they are also planning to produce a video project with Mr. Ishizuka, and with expectations high for future developments, the event came to a close
Information
Arc'teryx
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