Modern snowwear utilizes a variety of technologies to deliver high-quality comfort and performance. Understanding the essence of these technologies will change the way you read the catalog now that many of the 2022-2023 season models have been released. So, let's briefly review the basics that will help you understand the latest features
Required functions for snowwear
It's more than just cold weather gear. That's the depth and difficulty of snowwear. If all you want is to keep out the cold, you can just throw on some thick, padded clothing and you're done. But skiing is an activity. Moving your body raises your body temperature and can even make you sweat. And if you hike up in the backcountry, your physical activity is sure to skyrocket
Not only do weather conditions and temperature change dynamically, but even the physical condition of the skier changes. And because it's an activity, skiwear must not restrict movement, so there are a wide range of requirements it must fulfill. It's a delicate balance that covers all of these, satisfying both these and these
When you think about the elements you want in snowwear, many things come to mind. Setting aside fashion elements such as color and style, this time we will focus on functionality
●Easy-to-use functions for riding, hiking, and other activities in snowy mountains
●Fabric performance inherent to the clothing fabric itself
So let's take a look at each of them
Easy-to-use functions and specifications for activities on snowy mountains
Hoods
keep out snow and wind, providing effective insulation. In that sense, they are a prime example of a system that allows you to adjust the heat retention to suit the situation. Recently, large-capacity hoods that can be used even while wearing a helmet have also appeared.
Front zippers
: Full zippers are easier to use when taking off and putting on clothing to regulate body temperature. They are sturdy enough to block wind and snow from the front, yet flexible enough to follow the movement of the body. They are mainly made of lightweight, rust-resistant resin.
pocket
to keep your hands warm and the chest pocket to store small items. The zippers on pockets for storing small items tend to open from top to bottom, but this is to prevent items from falling out even if the zipper is not completely closed.
Ventilation:
It acts as a window that lets in outside air to regulate body temperature. It is often placed under the armpits because heat tends to accumulate there, but it is also because it is in the shade of the arms and is less susceptible to snow and rain.
The cuff
is slightly longer so that it doesn't feel too tight when skiing. The cuff is often thicker so that it can be worn over gloves, and it has a wide adjustment range so that it can be flexibly used with a variety of gloves.
Other common features found on jackets
include powder skirts and wrist gaiters to prevent snow from getting inside the hem and at the cuffs, cords to adjust the hood, drawcords to tighten the hem, and some backcountry wear even has built-in RECCO reflectors.
Pants
often have large side zippers on the sides of the thighs for ventilation. Most are set on the outside of the thighs, but there are also products with zippers on the inside or both the inside and outside.
the waist
, stomach, and lower back warm, and to prevent snow from getting in if you fall. The waist size can also be adjusted with hook-and-loop fasteners, so the fit is not compromised even without a belt.
hem
is protected with durable materials such as Kevlar to prevent cuts caused by contact with the edge. Although it is durable, it is designed not to impair flexibility, so it does not affect footwork.
Fabric structure and functional role
A three-layer jacket has a membrane sandwiched between the outer and inner layers (outer, membrane, and lining), while a two-layer jacket has no lining and is made up of only the outer layer and membrane (outer and membrane)
3-layer jackets have a lining that protects the membrane, improving durability and providing a comfortable fit thanks to the smoothness of the lining. 2-layer jackets have no lining, making them more breathable and reducing the weight of the product. They also offer a supple feel. Utilizing these features, a structure in line with the product concept has been adopted
provided by Gore Japan LLC
Functional role of the outer fabric
This part can be considered the skeleton of the wear, and it repels snow and rain, maintains its strength, and determines the shape and color of the wear. It is mostly made from synthetic fibers, and nylon is often used because nylon's abrasion resistance, elasticity, and flexibility make it perfect for ski wear
The functional role of the lining
In addition to ensuring ease of movement by allowing the items worn underneath to slide smoothly, they also absorb sweat, improving comfort and ease of wear. Some products also use a lining with thermal insulation to improve cold protection
Some have padding
Some ski wear is filled with padding to increase its warmth. Most uses synthetic fiber padding that is resistant to moisture to protect against snow and sweat. Some ski wear also adjusts its warmth according to the distribution of body temperature, such as by placing padding more in the front of the body, which is more likely to get cold from the wind while skiing
Functional role of waterproof and breathable materials (membranes)
Most modern skiwear has a waterproof, breathable membrane sandwiched between the outer and inner layers. Think of it like a sandwich: the bread is the outer and inner layers, and the ham inside is the membrane. This membrane has over 1.4 billion pores per cubic centimeter, and its microscopic pore structure creates waterproof, breathable, and windproof properties. While waterproof
and windproof are self-explanatory, breathability refers to the ability of a garment to allow moisture inside to pass through. While it blocks moisture from the outside, such as rain and snow on snowy mountains, it allows moisture vapor from sweat inside the garment to pass through, preventing stuffiness. Specifically, it is expressed as a number, measuring how many grams of moisture in vapor form (not droplets) escapes from inside the garment over a 24-hour period. Naturally, the higher the value, the higher the breathability.
The ability to maintain comfortable conditions through breathability has a major impact on climbing and skiing performance on snowy mountains. This is why membranes are so important in snowwear. Understanding the characteristics of membranes will help you better understand the intended use of that snowwear
There are many different types of membranes, each with its own characteristics. Well-known examples include GORE-TEX, NeoShell, and eVent, which are often used in shells and gloves
The membrane is for "layering"
The items in the photo below are products for what is known as "layering." Layering means wearing multiple layers of clothing. In order to enjoy active activities comfortably and to the fullest, it is necessary to flexibly respond to changes in body temperature, which are constantly changing depending on natural conditions and movement. "Layering" is what leads to performance and comfort on snowy mountains.
The basis of layering is to wear three layers of clothing, starting from the layer closest to the skin: the "base layer," "middle layer," and "outer layer." There are two main points at the heart of layering:
- Avoiding sweat-absorbing clothing touching the skin
- Quickly drying sweat-absorbing clothing
Layering is not simply about wearing multiple layers of clothing, but about selecting materials and structures that reflect the characteristics each layer should exhibit. The first layer, which is closest to the body, should be made of a material that keeps sweat away from the skin, while the second layer should be made of a material that absorbs sweat, disperses it, and evaporates it
The role of the outer jacket is to release the sweat that has turned into vapor into the air. In the case of skiing, this is the shell jacket. However, even if you want to release sweat, you also want to keep out snow and rain. "Waterproof and breathable" properties allow you to achieve these contradictory functions, allowing only moisture to pass through while keeping water
out. In other words, "waterproof and breathable" properties are an extension of the idea of layering. Layering is essential to fully utilize waterproof and breathable properties, so simply wearing clothing made of waterproof and breathable material is not the answer! That's why this performance is necessary.
Plus, what you need to know
What is water resistance?
In the natural conditions of a snowy mountain, there's a high chance of exposure to blizzards and rain. For safety reasons, you want to avoid getting wet and cold from snow and rain. Waterproofing is essential for snowwear. A good way to express this in numerical terms is through water pressure. Water pressure is a measure of the fabric's ability to resist water's tendency to soak through.
The water pressure number tells you how much water pressure a material can withstand. Naturally, the higher the number, the more waterproof it is. A
typical nylon umbrella has a water pressure rating of around 200-500mm, while a sturdy raincoat has a rating of around 5,000mm. Considering prolonged exposure to rain and snow, snowwear needs to have a water pressure rating of at least 10,000mm.
When choosing clothing, you can't decide whether to buy it or not until you've actually tried on a sample on a snowy mountain, so the water resistance number is important information that can guarantee waterproofness
What is denier, an indicator of fabric hardness?
Some clothing feels stiff and hard to wear, while others are very flexible. The difference is determined by factors such as the thickness of the outer fabric and the material of the lining.
In catalogs, the "D" after a number is an abbreviation for the unit denier. Denier represents the weight of the thread used in the fabric, and is expressed as the number of grams per 9,000 meters. In catalogs, this indirectly indicates the thickness of the fabric. While typical clothing ranges from 70 denier to 150 denier, it's important to remember that fabric stiffness and comfort cannot be determined by the denier number alone.
How to give fabric stretch
Naturally, stretchy fabric makes it easier to move around. To make fabric stretchy, either the threads that make up the fabric must be made elastic, or the fabric itself must be made stretchy through the weaving method. In either case, if you combine it with the membrane mentioned above, the membrane itself must also be stretchy. Making waterproof, breathable clothing stretchy actually requires a very high level of skill
Cutting of clothing
It's not enough to just use high-performance fabrics. It's also important that the design is designed to fully utilize the fabric's capabilities. Clothing with cutting that takes into account the body movements when sliding and climbing on snowy mountains offers high mobility. For example, by using three-dimensional cutting in areas where there is a lot of movement, such as the knees and elbows, and highly stretchable fabric on the back, movement is not restricted and stress-free. It's also a good idea to pay attention to the cutting
I've learned how to read a catalog and what to look for when choosing clothing
Once you understand the functional roles of clothing parts and fabrics in this way, you will be able to better understand the meaning and importance of the information published in clothing catalogs. Give it a try. Let's pick out some product information from the NORRONA online store. I've written the functional aspects of the clothing in red text
NORRONA
tamok Gore-Tex Pro Jacket
The outer fabric is based on GORE-TEX® PRO's Most Breathable technology, with a 70-denier recycled nylon exterior . The shoulder and elbow panels, which are prone to wear and tear, are reinforced with 160-denier GORE-TEX® PRO's Most Rugged technology.
The two new to provide superior waterproof, breathable, windproof, and durable performance. Features include a helmet-compatible hood, front vents, and built-in hand gaiters at the cuffs . The longer, relaxed fit creates a unique look, making this a technical piece perfect for the backcountry, yet also at home on the slopes.
summary
Modern snowwear incorporates a variety of functions and distinctive materials. Waterproof and breathable materials are now commonly used in many types of snowwear. However, unless you properly understand the meaning and function of these materials, you won't be able to utilize their full potential. Understanding these features will help you make more efficient use of the functions your snowwear offers
What materials are used in the clothing, and what are they for? How will you spend your time in the mountains? By looking at clothing from a functional perspective, you will be able to see what kind of clothing you need. If you choose a piece of clothing with this in mind, your snowboarding in the new season is sure to be more comfortable and enjoyable
text/Takuro Hayashi + STEEP