Hokkaido's powder belt isn't just for the harsh winter. Leave Honshu as spring approaches and head north

2024/03/27

Powder freaks from all over the world visit the Hokkaido Powder Belt, located in the very center of Hokkaido

The inland area of Hokkaido, stretching from Asahikawa in the north to Shimukappu in the south, where Tomamu is located, has come to be known as the "Hokkaido Powder Belt." Hokkaido is blessed with both quality and quantity of snow, but this area receives even lighter snowfall consistently. Following Niseko in Hokkaido and Hakuba in Honshu, it has now become a popular destination for inbound tourists during the high season

And it's no surprise. The overwhelmingly light snow is unique to inland areas. At its heaviest, it piles up to your chest. There are high-altitude alpine areas, and at lower altitudes, you can enjoy tree runs through the broad-leaved branches of Erman's birch. There are also a wide variety of locations. This means that even in bad weather or poor visibility, there is somewhere in this area where you can enjoy powder snow to your heart's content

A distinctive feature of the snow in this area is that when you make a turn, the snow rises up like fluffy fluff. Photo: Ayako Niki

The area around Mount Tokachi has a wonderful alpine atmosphere, and Mount Asahi in the Daisetsuzan mountains is within 60km of Asahikawa

As such, the Hokkaido Powder Belt has a high chance of producing powder even after March. This snow is not just a benefit during the high season, but also a foundation for enjoying the season for a long time

The Daisetsuzan mountain range, which includes Hokkaido's highest peak, Mount Asahi at 2,291m, as well as mountains around 2,000m above sea level, has a mountain environment comparable to that of the 3,000m-class mountains of Honshu, due to its weather conditions and high latitude. In other words, even as spring approaches, the environment is similar to that of the upper part of Honshu's Northern Alps, so at relatively high altitudes, on north-facing slopes and in places less affected by wind, you can enjoy powder snow even after late March

The backcountry area is vast. The Tokachi area in particular is easily accessible, attracting skiers from all over the world looking for powder snow. Photo/Hiroya Nakata

However, it's difficult for visitors to find powder in the spring. Understanding the snow conditions on each mountain and finding the best option is also a challenging task. This is where the knowledge of a guide club comes in handy.
This time, we asked Takeishi Makoto (Hokkaido Expeditions), who guides all over Hokkaido, to guide us on a specific itinerary. We wanted a hike that wasn't too long, and we wanted to ski on a little bit of fresh snow. What kind of mountain would they choose to meet such a request? We asked Ogawa from our editorial team and Ichikawa Takamine, who skis in various mountain ranges, to guide us.

INDEX

The mountain we climbed was Sandanyama. The sky was cloudless, perfect for enjoying the mountain

The date was March 30th, 2023. The weather had been stable and good until the previous day, so the temperature at the foot of Kamifurano exceeded 10 degrees during the day. The gentle spring sunshine had an effect even at higher altitudes, and the slopes exposed to the sun were repeatedly melting and freezing. Our guide, Takeishi, was also impressed by these conditions

"I guess there's little hope for powder. Start slowly and climb up and ski as the snow softens."

He told me this while surrounded by smoke in a yakiniku restaurant in Asahikawa

The Daisetsuzan mountain range lies to the east of the Hokkaido Powder Belt. This mountain range is vast and deep, including the Tokachi mountain range, which includes Mount Kurodake, Mount Asahidake, and Mount Furanodake, as well as Mount Nipesotsu, a popular destination for mountain experts. There is bound to be good conditions lurking somewhere

Climb Mt. Sandan while admiring the majestic sight of the former Tokachi region

The mountain we headed for was Sandanyama, a major point in the Tokachi mountain range. At its base is the hot spring resort "Shiroganeso," and one of its attractions is being able to enjoy both hot springs and backcountry skiing together. As its name suggests, Sandanyama is a mountain with three levels: the first level is a climb through a forest of Ezo spruce, the second level is a gentle slope that passes through the forest, and the third level is alpine

Looking back, you can see the Furano Basin and the Daisetsuzan mountain in the distance, a beautiful view. It's a pleasant mountain to climb while watching the scenery change. The difference in altitude from Shiroganeso to the summit of Sandanyama is about 700m. Even if you walk slowly and take breaks along the way, it takes just under three hours. But what about this time...?

From here on, we will trace back what happened on the day, mainly through photos

We started walking around 9:30. Maetokachi stands before us, calm and composed. As it is an active volcano, smoke can be seen rising from various places. The ground temperature is high in the surrounding area, so snow does not adhere to the ground, leaving the bare earth exposed

The snow is moist on the sunny side, and fresh and firm in the shade. The climb is about 200m in altitude through a forest of Ezo spruce trees

We climbed in beautiful spring weather. Most of the snow had fallen from the Ezo spruce trees, leaving them dazzlingly green

We took a break after climbing the second gentle slope. The skies were perfect with not a single cloud in sight and almost no wind. Even if we couldn't ski in the powder, it felt great to be in this location

Looking back, the Furano Basin spreads out before us. The third section of the climb from here is an icy slope in places, so we put on our ski crampons early

The Furikozawa fumaroles in Mae Tokachi are exposed to the ground. The source of the smoke is yellowish, likely due to sulfur. The pyramidal mountain in the background is the summit of Mount Tokachi, 2,077 meters above sea level

We climbed steadily until we reached the ridgeline. The particularly white mountain in the background is Mt. Asahidake

If you climb up to the ridge of Mt. Sandan, you can see a magnificent view of Mt. Furano, Mt. Kamihorokametoku, and Mt. Kamifurano lined up in the distance

The summit of Mt. Sandan, 1,748 meters above sea level. The clock just struck 12 o'clock

I was feeling a bit hungry, so I munch on some snacks while surrounded by this magnificent view. "By the way, where are we going to ski?"

After a good rest at the summit, it was time for the long-awaited skiing. I aimed for the north slope. I skied carefully, trusting that the hard surface would only last until the drop point

We arrived at the drop point. Although the sun was a little affecting the weather, the snow looked better than expected, so our expectations for the ski run grew

First up was our guide, Makoto Takeishi. "It's a difficult slope with a mix of soft snow and hard surfaces whipped by the wind," he said over the radio. Despite that, he didn't seem to be descending at a decent speed

Next up was Ogawa, who jumped onto the slope. When he started to slide down, the surface felt less hard than he had expected. So he stepped down hard and enjoyed the fresh snow of late March

To be honest, Takamine-san didn't think he'd be able to slide down such soft snow. He descended safely on the steep slopes, but as the slope became gentler, his body relaxed and he was able to ride comfortably

Once you leave the main slope with its good snow and steepness, there is only a gentle slope left to the trailhead at Hakuginso. Enjoy a fun ride while taking in the surrounding scenery

After descending the mountain, we headed to the rustic Fukiage open-air bath. Even though it was early spring, the air was cold, so the hot water warmed our bodies. As we enjoyed this atmosphere, the topic of conversation turned to the TV drama "From the North Country."

Since I had been in Hokkaido two days before, I thought I would need to go up a lot of altitude and aim for the north slope to be able to ski in powder snow. Although it was only a three-hour hike and the slope was short, I never expected to be able to ski in powder snow even at the end of March

I've skied in this area during the frigid peak season, and the mountain's different appearance depending on the time of year is both a great and a scary thing. In the spring, when the weather tends to be relatively stable, the views are open and the sunlight feels pleasant even while walking in the mountains. The mountains you can see during breaks are majestic and give a sense of height. The vibrant smoke from Mae Tokachi is also a spectacular sight

Depending on the weather, it may still be winter-like, so you can experience powder snow that exceeds expectations. On the other hand, the snow that has fallen may melt or harden, causing painful experiences. In the spring season, the Hokkaido Powder Belt offers more than enough ski fields and environments. The days can get longer, so you can spend the whole day in the mountains enjoying long routes. This is the start of the second season of enjoying the mountains

Guide Information

▶Hokkaido Expeditions
official website: https://www.hokkaidoexpeditions-japan.com/
SNS: Instagram

Enjoy the spring season to the fullest, starting from "OMO7 Asahikawa by Hoshino Resorts"

There is a neighborhood map in the lobby that shows all the places to stop by around OMO7 Asahikawa

If you want to fully enjoy the second season of Hokkaido's Powder Belt, we recommend OMO7 Asahikawa by Hoshino Resorts, a skier-first base in Asahikawa. Asahikawa, with a population of 340,000, is Hokkaido's second largest city, boasting a rich and varied food culture with a wealth of fresh food. With plenty of accommodation options and an entertainment district concentrated around Asahikawa Station, Asahikawa is perfect for after-ski fun. Plus, when the weather on the mountain is unpredictable, it's a great place to change things up and enjoy city sightseeing

"FuraRito" is a restaurant district located in a back alley near OMO7 Asahikawa. It's not the freezing cold of midwinter, so you can easily walk around the town

OMO7 Asahikawa offers many convenient services for skiers. Located right in the center of the city, there is a free shuttle bus that connects four ski resorts and mountains during the high season. There is also a ticket counter inside the building, so you can purchase your lift ticket without having to wait in line at the ski resort

During the season, there is a morning event where they announce the best powder snow for the day. It is very convenient to be able to connect with the local staff via video call and get the current conditions in real time

"Today's Powder Information/Live Broadcast" will be held in the lobby on the first floor from 6:30 am. On this day, Mr. Abe from Kamui Ski Links will be appearing

There is also a maintenance space called "OMO WAX BAR" where you can use 30 types of wax for free, suitable for snow temperatures ranging from 15°C to -30°C, and a drying room just to the right of the entrance which can be accessed by entering a PIN number

There are waxes from various brands. There are many types for different snow temperatures, so they cover everything from the peak season to spring

There is also an iron on hand. A special wax stand prevents wax from falling onto the floor when you peel it off. This is so well made that I want one for my own home

A drying room that can be accessed by entering a PIN code known only to guests

There is also a boot dryer available. No oversight in gear maintenance

A lounge where Asahikawa brand "FIELD EARTH" snowboards and skis are on display. Perfect for PC work and conversation

Once you enter your room, you'll find a dedicated rack where you can store your skis, boots, goggles, gloves, and clothing all in one place, and you can store bulky ski cases under the bed, among other features to make your stay comfortable (rooms with dedicated racks are only available if you apply for a special plan, which is limited to four rooms per day)

There is storage space under the bed, so the room will not get cluttered even during long stays

A storage rack that can hold all your skiing equipment. It can easily fit two people's worth of luggage

It's no problem if you're not familiar with the city of Asahikawa. OMO Rangers, your neighborhood guides based at OMO7 Asahikawa, will guide you through the city, showing you places to eat and drink. There's a wide variety of options, including bustling izakayas, Genghis Khan restaurants, relaxing bars, and everyone's favorite ramen. You can enjoy après-ski activities that you wouldn't be able to if you were staying on the slopes

We walked through the town with an OMO ranger and arrived at our destination, a yakiniku restaurant. It was a worthwhile tour where we learned about the town's culture and history, something we wouldn't normally know just by walking around

As the seasons progress and warmer temperatures begin to appear from the end of March to April, you can enjoy the second season of the winter in the "Hokkaido Powder Belt," which has ample ski fields

Information

OMO7 Asahikawa by Hoshino Resorts
Official Website: https://omo-hotels.com/asahikawa/　
SNS: Instagram | X

Photo/ Takahiro Nakanishi