While the vast majority of skiers and snowboarders say the season is over after the Golden Week holidays in May, even in mid-May, Yamagata Prefecture's Gassan Ski Resort still had 370cm of snow.
It's surprising that skiing and snowboarding can still be enjoyed well into summer. We asked STEEP readers who have thoroughly enjoyed the Gassan backcountry this spring to report on the charms of Mt. Gassan, where skiing is still possible.
Mt. Gassan is packed with all the charms of spring skiing
When you think of spring in the world of snowy mountains, you think of Mt. Gassan. I'm sure there are many people who think, "Oh, spring has come!" when they hear that the Gassan Ski Resort is opening! I think the Gassan backcountry in spring is packed with all the charms of the spring season
The appeal of spring backcountry skiing is something like this:
the first is that the weather is relatively stable, allowing for leisurely mountain hiking;
the second is that you can ski on a variety of snow types that differ from those in the harsh winter; and
the third is that you have more time, allowing for a wider range of activities.
Now that May is over, many people will have put away their snowboards for the season, but I hope to share the charm of the surprisingly long spring and summer season through a report on a backcountry tour of Mt. Gassan, the starting point of Guide KinTouN's annual "Spring Tohoku Snow Caravan."
Gassan Backcountry: A fun and otherworldly experience
Gassan Ski Resort is famous for being a ski resort that opens in April. Beyond the lifts is a vast backcountry area
If you look towards Mt. Gassan from Yamagata City at this time of year, you'll see that the large, flat mountain is the only thing covered in pure white snow. Looking at this, it's easy to understand why people in the past felt a mystical aura about these mountains and made them the object of mountain worship. There is a magnificent shrine on the summit, but at this time of year it is still buried under snow, and the gods don't usually come up until July 1st
Mt. Gassan is located about an hour and a half by car from Yamagata City. Due to heavy snowfall in winter, it is only possible to access Mt. Gassan by car as far as Shizu Onsen, just before the mountain, but once the snow is removed in time for the opening of the Gassan Ski Resort, you can finally access the ski resort at the foot of Mt. Gassan
The most attractive thing about skiing down Mt. Gassan is the terrain, surrounded by the ridges of Mt. Gassan and Mt. Ubagatake, which gives off a slightly otherworldly feeling.
When you drop from the ridge to the bottom, the first thing that catches your eye is the deep blue sky and the land surrounded by white ridges. No matter how many times you stand here, you are overwhelmed by this place, where a unique otherworldly feeling spreads out in the silence. As
the first day of the year was a weekday Friday, there were few people around, which made the otherworldly feeling even more enjoyable.
The first run of spring. Will the white slide? Or the brown?
Day 1, my first run of spring! It's been a while since my last backcountry run, so I'm a little nervous standing at the drop point on a steep, open run for the first time in a while. Unlike in the dead of winter, there's no powder to catch me off the steep slope I jumped into, which makes me a little uneasy (lol)
When you think of spring, the classic image is the white and brown spotted pattern on the slopes. A few days before we started our tour of Mt. Gassan, a fairly large amount of fresh snow fell, and since then it has been melting and freezing repeatedly. The areas that are not exposed to the sun are still pure white! The bottom is a jumble of white and brown. I wonder if the skis will slide on this?
Our guide, Minegishi, skied ahead and saw his skis sliding in the white areas! As we descended in altitude, the snow was a bit stop-snowy in the white areas, but overall it looked good!
The person ahead of us quickly became as small as a bean. I think skiing down these huge slopes is one of the charms of spring backcountry.
And the answer to the question, "Will my skis slide on the mottled white and brown spring snow?" on the first day was, "They did!"
The east side of Mt. Gassan with its beautiful shiny film
The temperature difference in the spring backcountry is extreme. In the mornings, radiation cooling makes it quite chilly, but during the tour, the double whammy of sunlight from above and reflection from the snow makes it extremely hot while you're out and about. It's even more scorching when there's no wind! Still, this heat isn't all bad.
When the sun goes into shade or a cold wind starts to blow, a film of ice forms on the surface, which is incredibly beautiful when it reflects the sun.
The second day was also scorching hot during the day. What's more, when you move down from the ridge on Mt. Gassan, the wind is blocked by the ridge and there is almost no wind. After sliding down one run, we hiked towards the summit, even though the heat was draining our energy.
Today is Saturday, so there are many hikers and the route to the summit is very busy. Despite the heat, we were encouraged by the sight of other hikers and finally made it to the summit.
At the summit of Mt. Gassan, in summer, only the roof of the impressive shrine building peeks out from the snow. In the harsh winter, it would be completely buried. The fact that such a magnificent shrine building exists in such a difficult location shows how deeply worshipped the mountain was in this area
Now, we take a lunch break at the summit. We take our time, taking care of the blisters that have formed on our feet during the long journey, and eating the lunch box prepared by the inn. The lunch box, which is a little stronger in flavor for mountain climbing, seeps into our bodies. It's so delicious! Salt is important after sweating
The first run of the afternoon was the most memorable slope of the tour. The sun's rays from the morning had already faded, and perhaps because it was in a bit of shade, the surface of the slope was crisp, and when I dropped down, I felt an indescribable sensation through my skis and boots
The sound of the edge biting into the crisp surface is unique, and the scenery in front of you is beautifully captured, allowing you to enjoy gliding with all five senses.
This feeling is something you can only get in spring! I truly believe this is the case.
Spring brings a relaxed feeling and it's good to try out new gear.
When talking about the benefits of backcountry skiing in the spring, it's essential to mention the laid-back atmosphere that only spring can offer. In the depths of winter, heavy snowfall and extremely low temperatures mean minimizing inactivity and planning your activities to avoid catching a cold. Quick changes between skiing and hiking are also required, so it's important to use familiar gear
In comparison, spring is a truly laid back experience! After skiing, you can relax in the warm sunshine and cool breeze, and have lively conversations with other tour participants. When you're with good friends, the conversation is lively and you'll be talking all the time except when it's unbearably hot (laughs)
There's one more thing I think spring is a good time to try out. That is, spring is a good time to try out new gear, especially bindings.
Even if you have trouble operating unfamiliar bindings, spring will give you plenty of room to maneuver. If you get used to them in the spring, you'll be able to use them comfortably from the start of the next season, and even if you have trouble, you'll be able to deal with it without any hassle. You'll also have plenty of time to think about how to deal with problems ahead of next season. For these reasons, I recommend trying out new gear in the spring.
Luggage issues and the relaxing Shizu Onsen
"Going to Mt. Gassan in the spring means going to enjoy the flavors of spring as well"
(lol). That's why it's standard practice to stay at a hotel in Shizu Onsen, located just before the Gassan Ski Resort, if you're planning to ski there for a few days. Spring in Shizu Onsen is wonderful, with an abundance of wild vegetables that are also delicious to the palate.
Sendaiya, where we stayed this time, is located right in the heart of Shizu Onsen. It's a convenient location for skiers who use public transportation. We sent all of our large luggage, such as our skis, via courier, so we only had one night's worth of luggage until we arrived at Shizu Onsen, making it super light! We were able to spend our time in Yamagata City light
One of the joys of a spring backcountry trip is, of course, the hot springs, but I think the real joy is the flavors of spring.
Shizu Onsen is lined with excellent inns, and all of them offer meals that allow you to savor the seasonal flavors of spring. There is still plenty of snow above Gassan Ski Resort, but below, spring is in full bloom. I think it's thanks to this large difference in elevation that Mt. Gassan is able to enjoy an abundance of wild vegetables for a long period of time in the spring.
KinTouN Spring Tohoku Snow Caravan
The "Spring Tohoku Snow Caravan" I participated in this time is run by backcountry guide KinTouN, and has been KinTouN's "spring tradition" for the past few years, starting around the opening day of Gassan Ski Resort. It's a
grand event that involves a two- to three-week road trip from mid-April, visiting Mount Gassan, Hakkoda, Mount Iwaki, Mount Chokai, Akita Komagatake, and other peaks in search of good slopes in the springtime backcountry of Tohoku.
(By the way, this year's event was held from April 22nd to May 6th, 2024.)
Participants will travel through the mountains of Tohoku one after the other, sleeping in their own cars or rental cars, sometimes staying overnight at lodgings.
Surrounded by KinTouN guide Minegishi, they will climb, ski, chat (and drink, lol), and have a fun-filled trip. You can join the caravan for multiple days or one day, and come and go as you please. Even if you don't have a long vacation, you can work remotely from your base in Yamagata City and join the caravan at specific times.
A romantic road trip through the Michinoku region, where you can admire the simple and lush nature of Tohoku. If you're interested, check out KinTouN's official Instagram or Mineken's Nature and Living Radio . You can find out about the tour and other information about upcoming tours. Why not give it a try?
SPECIAL THANKS
Guide: KinTouN Representative: Kenichi Minegishi