Photo/Takanori Ota
On a certain day in February, I, Ai Fukuda, a member of the STEEP editorial team, headed to Nozawa. Up until then, my skiing life had been mainly focused on basic skiing, and I had little to do with freeskiing or backcountry skiing (BC). "I want to ski down the vast BC!" But it would be too reckless to just ski down the BC by myself without any prior experience. How to use avalanche gear? How to attach skins? I had absolutely no idea, but I heard about a BC course for beginners that would teach me everything from scratch. The place that offers
such beginner-friendly courses is "COMPASS HOUSE," which has three stores including a shop, cafe and rental shop in Nozawa Onsen Village, Nagano Prefecture.
They plan a variety of tours for various skill levels throughout the season, but to participate in any tour, it is a requirement to first take the "Beginner's Course to Make BC More Enjoyable."
The reason for this is to provide a warm-up space where beginners in backcountry skiing can get used to the tour smoothly by receiving advice on safety and climbing techniques, and by ensuring they can participate in the tour with peace of mind and enjoyment. It also serves to match the skill levels of the tour participants. For example, if a backcountry beginner participates in a tour for experts, they will not be able to keep up with both skiing and climbing, and other participants will have to wait for the beginner, which will be stressful for everyone.
It can be said that this is an effort to help everyone enjoy their precious day in backcountry skiing as much as possible.
This time, I will report on the seminar and also share my thoughts as a complete beginner, as well as some information that skiers and snowboarders who want to try backcountry skiing should know
The exciting BC seminar begins
On the day, we gathered at Mt. DOCK, located at the foot of the Nagasaka Gondola at Nozawa Onsen Ski Resort. The participants (target audience) for this event were myself and Lars, a shop staff member from Australia. Neither of us had any experience with backcountry skiing, of course. Our instructor for these beginners was Takaya Kawaguchi of TKY

Before leaving, I checked my equipment. When I saw the gear I would be using, I couldn't help but think, "It looks like camping gear," or "What's this thing that makes a beeping noise?" Everything can be rented here. Before buying everything without knowing what it is, it's a good idea to rent it and try it out first


The above items are required for a beginner's course, but since this is also a mini backcountry tour, you should also bring appropriate ski gear. It's best to have bindings and poles with walk mode. If you don't have these, you can rent them. I usually use skis with alpine bindings, so I rented fat skis with bindings that allow walking

Before heading up the mountain, the participants announced their enthusiasm, saying things like, "We'll have fun!" and "We'll do our best!" before heading to the summit

The spot we're aiming for today is one of guide Kawaguchi's favorites. We'll take the Nagasaka Gondola up and head to the BC area.
*A climbing permit is required to enter the BC area. This tour/workshop organized by Compass House will submit climbing permits for all participants, so you can rest assured.
Prepare to hike
The training field is a vast snowy field. Here, we receive a lecture on what to do when actually hiking, such as how to apply ski seals and how to switch bindings to walk mode. This is usually done on an unstable slope, so we first practice on a flat surface so we can apply them quickly here
First, try applying the ski stickers. Cleanly brush off any snow from the ski soles and apply the stickers little by little. If snow gets between the ski and the sticker, it will likely cause the sticker to come off while walking. So apply it carefully and securely. There was wind on the day, and at times the sheet attached to the adhesive side of the sticker was blown away by the wind

Frame touring bindings have both walking and skiing functions, so you need to learn how to switch modes.
Switching from ski mode to walk mode is as simple as releasing the lever. Conversely, switching from walk mode to ski mode requires pressing down on the binding and sliding it into place. It was my first time doing this, and it was quite difficult.
Switching the lever is hard and difficult. Furthermore, when switching to walk mode, you have to carefully remove the snow from the rail where the bindings attach. It's a difficult task for someone like me who hates to bother, but I thought, "What if it comes off while I'm skiing?" so I carefully practiced repeatedly

By the way, since the boots did not have a walk mode, I walked with the third and fourth buckles on the boots and the power belt almost fully open. The wider the range of movement in the front and back of the boots, the easier it is to walk and the less tired you are. I was told that it is better to use poles that are longer when walking than when you are normally skiing. Adjustable poles are convenient for BC
There is a lot to do. You will be using all the tools for the first time, but you will be taught carefully one by one, so it's okay even if you have no prior knowledge. You can learn each point by attending the training course

Then, I actually walked across the vast snowy field

My first impression after walking with skins was, "It feels a bit strange." My skis, which normally glide smoothly, gripped the snow firmly. I walked with my heels off the ground, like cross-country skiing, which was an unfamiliar way of walking, and my hands and feet moved out at the same time, leaving me confused and wondering, "How do I normally walk?" But I kept going
Learn the BC "kick turn"!

Next, we practiced the "kick turn." This is different from what someone who has taken lessons at a ski school or avid skiers who have thoroughly studied ski manuals might imagine. The kick turn we knew before was about changing the direction of the skis 180 degrees while stationary, but the kick turn in backcountry skiing is different.
When hiking up a steep slope, instead of going straight up to the top, you proceed in a zigzag pattern. This is a technique necessary for changing direction in that situation.
Click here to see the event
I now understand the basics of a kick turn.
Go a little further than where you want to change direction, and firmly extend the uphill leg with a wide stride. Fix the position of the leg that has extended the pole, put your weight firmly on the forward leg, and pull up the other leg. Pull your heel in, keep your knees together, and position the skis so that they are directly under your body, aligning them with the forward leg.
Mr. Kawaguchi gave two points to beginners:
1. Don't panic first.
2. When pulling in the downhill leg, lean your upper body forward as if folding it.
I was taught a lot, but kick turns were more difficult than I had imagined. Because my heels would slip off, I couldn't lift the board as I wanted, and I ended up losing my balance in unexpected places. I began to feel a bit uncomfortable, and the thought that crossed my mind was, "I want to walk as straight as possible. I don't want to change direction."

And when I fell, I couldn't get up. Normally, when I fell while skiing, I could recover quickly, but this time it was soft powder. I didn't know how to apply force, and even when I tried to use the snow for support, I was pulled deeper into the depths. It was embarrassing, even though I was a grown adult, to have to be picked up by a guide..

The day of the visit was sunny, allowing for views into the distance, and even though we continued to walk through the deep snow, it was still a visual treat. Of course, the snow wasn't packed down, so if you walked in boots you would get stuck in them. Walking through the forest, where the only traces left were animal footprints, gave us an indescribable feeling of comfort and a mystical view that is unique to BC
Avalanche gear training is also practical

Next came the practical training session on avalanche gear, also known as the "three sacred treasures" of BC. Using the beacons that we learned how to use at the beginning, the lesson simulated an actual avalanche accident and involved finding and digging up a buried beacon
"An avalanche has occurred and our comrades have been buried! Please find them quickly!"
At Mr. Kawaguchi's signal, we switched our beacons to search mode. The beacons display the location of the source (distance and direction), so we were supposed to search towards that location...
However, at this time, Mr. Kawaguchi was actually "playing a trick" on the other members of the group who were not trainees. The location of the source wouldn't settle down, and the display that was pointing forward would change to pointing backward, causing us to circle around in circles.
Normally, when activating search mode, it is essential that all members present switch to "search mode." However, one of the group members didn't switch, so the search point could never be determined.
were able to learn about and experience such real-world scenarios during the training session.
I had no idea that the probes I was handling for the first time could be assembled in one go, and as I was assembling them one by one, someone urged me, saying, "Your teammates are already there! Hurry!" If it were a real emergency, I wouldn't be able to get away with saying, "I didn't know that." I keenly felt that these types of training sessions were extremely useful


You learn how to use each piece of gear and master it. There are many things you won't understand until you actually get your hands on it. The book is easy to follow even for complete beginners, and the instructions are fun and include examples, so I would definitely recommend it to anyone who wants to try BC
Beginner Mini BC Tour
Normally, the beginners' lesson ends here, but this time we decided to try out a few runs as a special tour. We moved to Kawaguchi's target spot and said, "Let's go!"

It was practically my first time skiing in the backcountry. I skied down my first run with great tension. To be honest, it was just as terrifying as a roller coaster. Just like how roller coasters, which I was scared of as a child, have now become addictive due to their thrill, my first run was nothing but terror, like being a child again.
Because it had snowed until noon the day before, there was still powder on the north slope. Of course, since it was backcountry skiing, it was an untouched slope that no one had skied on. As I started to ski, I gradually began to think, "Hmm? This might be fun?" but I couldn't stop properly and ended up tumbling and buried in the snow...



I was overwhelmed by everyone's skiing. I want to ski coolly, not fall and get buried in the snow... I'll have to practice properly from now on. With this thought in mind, the fun, slightly difficult tour continued for a little while longer



I was tired because I was not used to the movements, but I felt a pleasant tiredness, like after a good workout. The weather was good, so the tour was all the more enjoyable. This made me want to take part in the next step. It was my first BC tour and I felt like I wanted to continue
I wish I had this! Things even beginners should prepare
This was my first time participating in a tour, and I'd like to list the things I thought, "I should have brought that!" or "I wish I had that..." Most of the items were things I personally needed, but I hope this will also be helpful for people who are starting BC in the future
sunglasses
I had forgotten about this because I was only thinking about "skiing." Normally, goggles would be enough since you'd be riding the lift, but skiing only takes a few minutes. The time spent preparing for the climb and climbing itself is overwhelmingly longer. And the day of the interview was sunny. In addition to the direct sunlight, the glare from the snow would have damaged my eyes. Next time, I'll definitely bring this essential item with me
Beanies and caps
I also forgot this item because I was only thinking about skiing. It's important to keep your luggage as light as possible, but it's also something you want to remember to bring. The place where I received the avalanche gear training also had nothing to block the wind, so I was hit directly by the wind and felt cold. I'll add this to my packing list too
Layering
More than just the things you need to pack, layering is an essential thing to think about. Until now, I've been of the "Layering? Anything is fine as long as it's not cold" type of thinking, so I'd been wearing everyday clothes like heat tech and a hoodie underneath my gear, but on this tour I really felt that way. More than just cold, I felt hot! I sweated a lot, and not being able to take my clothes off was very stressful. The scary thing after sweating is getting cold. The stress on your body from being hot or cold can ruin your whole day. I really understood why highly functional innerwear is necessary
According to our guide, Mr. Kawaguchi, the most important thing is to have layers. Instead of buying cheap layers, you should wear good quality ones

By the way, when I asked Kawaguchi what he would recommend, he replied, "Patagonia's Capilene Air base layer." Made from a highly breathable blend of 51% merino wool and 49% recycled polyester, it's moisture-wicking, quick-drying, and odor-resistant, making it the perfect item for BC
Product information on the official Patagonia website:https://www.patagonia.jp/shop/mens-capilene-air-baselayers
backpack
What I realized on this tour was that I had to take things in and out more than I had imagined. I had a lot of bulky items, like helmets, outerwear, and avalanche gear. I realized I wanted to get a backpack that was easy to access and had a lot of storage space. I especially wanted one that could hold a helmet, or one that could be attached to the backpack. Hanging a helmet from the straps of a backpack is a real nuisance when walking
boots
This time, I rented skis, bindings, and poles, but I brought my own boots. After walking and climbing repeatedly all day, the inside of my boots were actually quite worn out. I had originally fitted them tight for use in tests and competitions, so my feet were numb when I came down the mountain. I could have easily kept my alpine boots, but I also needed to change into boots with a bit more room
These are the items you should have. I think renting other hard items is enough for beginners. I think that as I get to know the still deep world of BC little by little, I will find something that suits me. I would like to learn about the items that guides and experienced people use and recommend, and gradually gather gear that is unique to me
Nozawa Onsen Ski Resort enjoys overwhelming support from skiers of all genres, both domestically and internationally. At its base is "COMPASS HOUSE," which offers not only beginner lessons but also numerous tours tailored to different skill levels.Click here


<The person who taught me this time>
Kawaguchi TKY Yaya
He took a leave of absence from university to train in freestyle skiing, experiencing the world level through bum life in Whistler and Banff, Canada. After a solo ski trip to the Yukon and Alaska that spring, his values changed, and he began to focus on ski travel rather than park riding. To date, he has visited more than 50 countries with skis and a surfboard in hand, including a round-the-world road trip. He continues to travel to remote areas and meet indigenous peoples, following his curiosity. He
also organizes BC tours and events in Japan to convey the joy of skiing and travel. He is the founder of the travel planning project ShareTavi. He is the main guide at Nozawa Onsen COMPASS HOUSE. He is a JMGA certified BC ski guide. (National English interpreter guide qualification. Comprehensive travel business manager qualification. Comprehensive tour manager qualification. Rishiri Fuji Ambassador)
Instagram:@tky_travel_skier
Interview cooperation: COMPASS HOUSE, Nozawa Onsen Ski Resort
