While many of you are still enjoying the season, how was your 2025-2026 season? My personal opinion, as YOSHI, is that it was a somewhat difficult season for those aiming for powder, with warm weather after heavy snowfalls, and periods without snow for a while. That being said, the beauty of backcountry skiing is that you can have fun no matter the conditions if you can find the right feel. This time, I'll report on my last ski trip of the season (April 24-26) to the Tateyama backcountry!
Tateyama in the 2026 season - Snow and slope conditions
This spring in the Murodo area has seen little snowfall. The height of the Snow Valley wall, a benchmark for conditions, is 12m (4m lower than last year), and the lack of snow is particularly noticeable in areas below 2200m, with snowmelt progressing rapidly. As of April 24th, the open surface of Mikurigaike Pond was already beginning to appear, highlighting the shortness of the remaining snow season. However, there was still plenty of snow remaining on the ridge around 2500m, making it an excellent backcountry field. For this season, it's definitely best to act early
Both days we were in the field were sunny with high temperatures and intense sunshine. On the first day, the combination of the cool breeze on the ridge and the sun created a magnificent film crust on the slopes of Tsurugi Gozen. On the second day, the temperature rose even further and there was almost no wind. The conditions were challenging, with a mix of soft granular snow and hard-packed snow. The snow surface changed dramatically between morning and afternoon. The appearance of the snow changes completely depending on the day and the time of day—that's what makes spring in the alpine areas so interesting
By taking connecting trains along the Alpine Route
For this mountain trip, I first took the Hokuriku Shinkansen from Tokyo to Nagano. From there, I took an Alpico Kotsu bus to Shinano-Omachi. If you want to catch the first bus to Ogizawa, it's best to stay overnight in Omachi. This time, I did thorough research online and arrived in Omachi on an evening bus
There's a large arcade along the old highway in Omachi. While the former hustle and bustle is now only a faint trace, the area is more enjoyable than I expected, with cafes and general stores opened by newcomers and local young people scattered throughout. Among them, the standing bar "Nishina Shoten" that I stopped by was particularly interesting
at Nishina
The style is to choose your favorite sake and snacks from shelves like those in a candy store, and then drink them at the counter while chatting with the owner. I enjoyed a glass of sake, building up my anticipation for Tateyama the next day. It was the perfect aperitif before dinner. For dinner, we went to "Tawaraya," a Chinese restaurant recommended by our guide. Their specialty is dumplings filled with plenty of meat, which are mildly seasoned and very filling. Since we had an early bus the next morning, I took a bath and went to sleep quickly
I woke up a little after 5 AM the next morning to a clear, sunny day. When I arrived at the bus stop in front of the station, the bus was already waiting. All I had to do was load my luggage and board. The bus was filled with skiers and snowboarders, all chatting about the upcoming season and their plans for Tateyama. The first thing to do when you arrive at Ogizawa Station is to secure a locker. These lockers are available for the entire duration of your stay, so it's a good idea to change into your ski boots and leave your regular shoes and any extra luggage there. This is especially helpful for those of us who don't have a car and are relying on public transport. I recommend buying tickets online in advance. The lines at the ticket counter on the day are incredibly long
Take the Kansai Electric Power Company Tunnel Electric Bus to Kurobe Dam, walk around the dam for 15 minutes, then take the Kurobe Cable Car, Tateyama Ropeway, and then another electric bus from Daikanbo to Murodo. The journey takes a little over two hours. The scenery changes with each mode of transport, and the amount of snow increases as you gain altitude. It's an irresistible itinerary for those who love different modes of transport. Meet your guide at Murodo and walk to Raichoso with your skis on your back. Raichoso is more like a ryokan (Japanese inn) than a mountain hut. It has a hot spring, a drying room, and meals. It's the perfect base, accessible from Tokyo with minimal equipment
After dropping off our belongings, replenishing our water and hot water supplies, and grabbing our snacks, we headed out into the field!
Day 1 |Tsurugi Gozen: Film Crust and the Sounds of Spring
"Today is the most active day of the three, so let's do our best and move around a lot!" the guide said
We began our hike from Raicho-so towards Tsurugi-gozen. The elevation difference was about 300-400m. Looking at the numbers alone, it might not seem like much, but this is at an altitude of 2500m. My heart rate was completely different from the mountains in the 1000m range that I usually hike. With the strong sunlight and altitude slowly draining my energy, I climbed little by little, taking breaks along the way. It was a time when I truly felt the difficulty of spring backcountry skiing when my body hadn't yet acclimatized to the altitude
Standing on the ridgeline, a magnificent cirque unfolds below. The strong sunlight and the cold wind on the ridgeline had created a film crust on the slope's surface. One by one, the members dropped in. Then, sounds could be heard from behind as they slid down. A harmony of the sound of flowing ice and the sound of flowing granular snow. It was an unforgettable sound, unique to this season, created by spring snow. The vibrations transmitted to the skis were also unique, a pleasure completely different from powder. This is the true essence of backcountry skiing
After climbing back up Tsurugi-Gozen and taking a break at the hut, we headed towards Mt. Daisen. The slopes, whose granular snow had softened further under the afternoon sun, were in perfect condition, and everyone in the group was beaming with smiles
Springtime granulated sugar on Mt. Daisen, and a sunset ride……
Around 4 PM, the guide suggested we head towards the slopes bathed in the setting sun. Unfortunately, by this time, several of us, including myself, were starting to feel the effects of the altitude, so we decided to head back to Raicho-so.
From a short distance away, we watched the remaining members hike up the slopes at high speed. I later heard that the granular snow on the slopes, bathed in the setting sun, was magnificent, making for an incredible ride. I'll save that view for next time. Missing a sunset ride due to altitude fatigue at an altitude of 2500m—this might be a rite of passage that skiers who usually ski at lower altitudes must go through at least once.
When I returned to Raicho-so, the basement drying room was filled with the heat of the stove. I hung my board and boots on a bamboo pole and headed straight for the hot springs. From the bathroom window, I could see the mountain range at dusk, and a group of climbers from Korea were making a lot of noise. Feeling a little proud, I soaked in the bath
Day 2: Mt. Daisen - Cola and the weather
The next morning was also clear and sunny. The previous day's weather forecast had predicted a deterioration in the afternoon, so we decided to make the most of the morning. We slid into the stream from Raicho-so lodge and hiked up towards Mt. Daisen. The temperature was even higher than the previous day, and there was almost no wind. The hike under the relentless sun was more grueling than the previous day, and some members showed signs of heatstroke along the way. We keenly felt that salty snacks are essential when hiking in Tateyama in spring
In that situation, it was Coca-Cola that saved me. When I opened the plastic bottle I had stashed in my backpack, the black liquid rushed down my throat with a satisfying "psst" sound. The carbonation and sugar instantly revitalized my body, which had been worn down by the sun. My head cleared up in no time. I've tried various snacks for mountain climbing, but Coca-Cola's effect in this situation is exceptional. I recommend keeping a bottle with you on a spring backcountry trip; you'll experience the ultimate deliciousness
The snow conditions that day were a mix of soft granular snow and hard-packed slopes. It was challenging but rewarding to ski on. When we reached the ridge of Mt. Daisen, we saw thick clouds approaching, so we descended early before being enveloped in fog. However, the clouds never came any closer. Looking at the mountain, which remained clear all day, the guide chuckled and said, "Alpine weather is unpredictable."
To the skiers who will be coming up
You can reach the Tateyama backcountry in spring even without a car. The journey itself, involving train and bus transfers, is part of the trip; the drinking pub in Omachi, the transfer at Ogizawa, and the snowy world of Murodo—it's all part of a continuous experience
If I were to give you just one piece of advice, it would be that, weather permitting, it's wise to keep your activities light on the first day to allow time for altitude acclimatization. A relaxed schedule, salt intake, and, if possible, a can of cola
This season the snow is melting early, so it's best to act quickly once you've decided to go. With that much preparation, spring in Tateyama will surely give you an amazing time. There aren't many spring mountain backcountry fields that are accessible by public transport
INFO
- Access: Hokuriku Shinkansen (Tokyo to Nagano) → Alpico Kotsu (Nagano to Shinano-Omachi) → Local bus (Shinano-Omachi to Ogizawa) → Various transportation options along the Alpine Route
- Overnight stay: Omachi city (near Shinano-Omachi Station)
- Ogizawa: Advance online ticket purchase recommended / Lockers available for use throughout your stay
- Raichoso: Equipped with hot springs and a drying room. A comfortable base in a traditional Japanese inn style
- Replenishment: Salt supplements are essential. Sugars and carbonated drinks like cola are also good
Official website: https://www.alpen-route.com/ |https://www.raichoso.com/
Special Thanks: GRANIX mountain guide https://granix-mg.com/